I hope you haven't spent all that money yet. Any of the truck chrome shops should have what you're looking for a lot cheaper. Check www.iowa80.com they have over 5,000 lights in their online catalog. I have those type of markers on my trailer and paid only a couple of dollars apiece for the light and I think around a dollar for the connector at about any truckstop or chrome shop.

Nope, I checked I80's web site. Nothing. I even had my son stop there (he drives over the road and runs that area often) and he found nothing. He even checked several other truck stops, nothing. I've got all the lights now, bought them from my local Kenworth dealer. They ordered them from trucklite, where just about everybody gets their lights. I'm quite sure you couldn't get one of these lights for $2.00. You might be able to find a incandesent one for less than $10 but not likely a l.e.d. one. If you can get these same lights for $2.00 I'd buy a bunch and re-sell them. I just started putting them in. The original hole in my siding is ever so slightly too small. I used some sand paper to open it up enough. That's too much work tho to do 24 of them. I'm going to get a abrasive bit for my die grinder and open the holes up that way.

Here's the original one:




And the finished one:

I didn't realize that you needed LED's. I may have not read closely enough. The lights I use on my trailer are incandescent and widely available. The connectors, however appear to be the same.

EEEEEKKKK!!!! Scotchlocks!!!

The scourge of the 12volt world!! Why anyone would use those other than the fact that they are lazy is beyond me.

Please take the time to solder and heat shrink those connections properly, you should have enough wire stuffed in there to do it right.

-blizz

I don't have to have l.e.d.'s, but I have to have a fixture with that flange around it so I can seal it with silicone. And these are the only ones I can find with that flange.

Blizz, you are a sharp eye. I didn't even pay any attention to those connectors. Ya, I could certainly pull them out and solder them. Good idea. The two I've put in so far are sealed in now tho. I'm not going to pull them out to do that. If they quit working I'll know just where to look first tho. The rest of them I'll bring my soldering pencil to. What about crimp on connectors? Are those no good either? Certainly easier than soldering. I have the crimping tool too.

Looks nice and neat Bob, G

I'll let ya get by with crimp connectors, AND heats-hrink. The problem with scotch-locks is it is very easy to chop the individual wires off! then you only have a few strands to conduct the current. Then the weight and shape of the scotch-lock starts to bounce however minutely as you go down the road breaking the surviving strands. Also the shell of a scotch-lock is a perfect trap for water or moisture, the alum blade vs the copper wire and electrolysis starts. The advantage to the crimp connector is twofold; the bounce is spread out away from the conductor wires and it is possible to slide heat-shrink to seal the connection from moister.
-blizz
I once stayed at a Holiday Inn Express, and also survived 4 years in the engineering dept at a wire harness plant.

.....solder...BUT don't let the wires touch anytiwhenme the juice is on...LED's can't stand any minuet shorts or mis-wiring at all......they die and can't be revived.....so wire all them in and solder the wires.... I use liquid marine wire insulator goop instead of shrink tube cuz I'm lazy...it works the same way and will seal no mater what...about $2.00 a 4 oz can....then any left overs will harden in a week or so....throw the opened can out and get a new one for a spare....test each circuit and install after checking of any openings in the insulation....with 12 volts use a plastic lume that covers the wires as vibration will cause the conductor to rub a whole in the covering and then there is a short-leaving the circuit open...causing flashing and dead LED's....fire isn't that much a problem if correctly fused.....geofkaye and the Rivercity Group